Bu makalenin konusu thermal place hakkında olacak. thermal place’yi arıyorsanız, bu Thermal Paste vs Liquid Metal – Benchmark makalesinde thermal place ile [TravelInnAndSuites]’yi tartışalım.

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Thermal Paste vs Liquid Metal - Benchmark
Thermal Paste vs Liquid Metal – Benchmark

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Thermal Paste vs Liquid Metal – Benchmark.

thermal place.

thermal place hakkındaki bilgilerle TravelInnAndSuites sizin için güncellenen bilgilerle, sizin için yararlı olacağını umarak daha fazla bilgi ve yeni bilgiye sahip olmanıza yardımcı olacağını umuyoruz.. Travel Inn And Suites thermal place hakkında bilgi izlediğiniz için içtenlikle teşekkür ederiz.

  1. Jozsi Olah diyor ki:

    You have to use a rwgular thermal paste first. You have to put a Windows sticker abve the processor, chipset, video chip the right way. It can be an illegal one. The processor, such as dual core can recognize the vista lines over the cover. After regular use, it will reduce the heat. Your legal eg win 7 code is recognized by a satellite, reading the code from the dvd cover once a year offline. After your computer is off the default blacklist, you can use the liquidmetal.

  2. kushfrom handsworth diyor ki:

    I watched this video when it came out. the liquid metal worked tremendously for a few months but as of now its degraded to reaching almost 100 degrees celsius. I think there was someone else who commented on the video mentioningn that this was a possibility. It does work amazzing while it does but be prepared for reaplying it every few months. The video is still great im just sharing my experience.

  3. Aaron diyor ki:

    How is this worth the switch from standard thermal paste? Would not fixing airflow, or larger cooler have a bigger difference in standard use? (Air cooled, no experience in liquid cooling)

  4. nin1ten1do diyor ki:

    well i do miss cover all by laquer.-.- hot liquid metal can splash when game bounce the hot laptop.. or just trow it on bag in hurry i already solve some case on GPU too.. so never forget laquer all around IC itself.. it is conductive

  5. ml_serenity diyor ki:

    Says "put just a little bit of liquid metal to GPU and CPU" and proceeds putting a LOT of liquid metal onto the heatsink side… 🙂 Also you really want to isolate the components on the GPU and CPU dies using nail polish or something before applying liquid metal…

  6. FrontMan diyor ki:

    Your tip about making sure that the liquid metal should not be a floating bubble is been very useful and ill take that to mind just to be safe. But i recently saw a video on yt by Asus ROG liquid metal application and they used a robot arm and had spread the same kind of thin liquid metal coating like you did. But the confusing part was, the fact that it also has added two additional liquid metal drops on each side of the die and it actually appeared floating. I dont know what they did next but they definitely used a lil much of it so i wonder, did they do that because the particular laptop was made to actually hold that volume of liquid? Or was that a bad mistake?

  7. Adrian Medina diyor ki:

    Hi Sorin, I have a toshiba satellite L845 laptop with amd apu A6 4400m cpu which heats up to 98 – 100 degrees in just about 5 minutes of turning it on, then it turns off, I already changed thermal paste, the cooler fan spins well, I see it in good heatsink Status, will the motherboard have any electronic problems? Maybe some smd thermal sensor? I hope you can guide me on what to check, I already have the schematic of the motherboard but I don't know where to check it, thanks!

  8. SALIWAN!!!PL diyor ki:

    The film should be a model of applying liquid metal to everyone. Because people bet too much on it. I marked the exact place on the heatsink with tape, and I covered the weak points with PCB varnish.

  9. K Krolik diyor ki:

    To use liquid metal properly you need electroplate copper with nikiel first otherwise it will react overtime with heat-sink and temps go up and need reapply again.

  10. Singularity diyor ki:

    I didn't want to risk putting liquid metal on my laptop because it seemed to suffer from paste pump out issues. Normal paste just never lasted long (maybe few days to a few weeks if I'm lucky). It started out great and over time I saw the CPU creeping its way back to the 90C region. When I removed the heatsink, the paste would always be pushed out to the sides and was barely covering the actual die. I was afraid liquid metal would end up pumping out in similar fashion, so never tried to apply it.

    Fortunately, I heard about some phase-change pad called "Honeywell PTM9750". It takes a while to get because it comes from China, but wow, it made a difference. I wasn't expecting much, but since putting that pad on, I haven't encountered CPU overheating problems like before. I added the pad several months ago and the CPU temperature is still doing good.

    For those that don't want to use liquid metal because of the risk, the Honeywell PTM9750 is something to try if you can get hold of it. It seems awesome for the long-term. I would always have to keep changing pastes often with normal pastes. That doesn't seem to be a problem any more.

  11. TechTomek diyor ki:

    The cooling of the MAC laptops is simply a joke, I remember how many made fun of it at the time e.g. Rossmann. That's why I would never buy Apple products, either that is absolute incompetence or intentionally, there is no other explanation.

  12. Pirelli diyor ki:

    Very impressive test dear Sorin. Unfortunately you may have forgotten to post the affiliate link to the Liquid Metal, who knows how many will be buying this Liquid Metal now!! haha 😃😃

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